Lourdes S asked:
I have a trolling motor on my boat, im about to install a stereo and a fishfinder, do I need a fuse box or do I keep wiring things directly to the battery? if I need a fuse box, what type? thanks guys
I have a trolling motor on my boat, im about to install a stereo and a fishfinder, do I need a fuse box or do I keep wiring things directly to the battery? if I need a fuse box, what type? thanks guys
Tags: Battery Box, Fuse Box, Trolling Motor
nope, no fuse box required. the stereo and fishfinder should already have a fuse to protect it. either the push in style or an inline (twist open) type. if not then buy your own inline fuse holder and wire that in. its easy but just get the proper fuse so you dont burn out your electronic add-on instead of blowing the fuse. it should show what amp fuse either on the device (schematic) or in the instructions.
Use marine inline fuseholders, and use the amperage recommended for the device.
You could keep running the wire’s to the battery ,but it would be safer and look much better if you install a fuse box.Just run the main power cable to one side of the fuse box , then run the ground cable to the other side of your fuse box You can run both of them from the battery
Fishfinder, better to use inline fuse anyway, otherwise you can get clutter on the screen from electrical noise.
Fuse box is overkill with just two accessories…but do use fuses though…or at least make sure your fire extenguisher is charged up.
You must use fuses of some sort. If you get a melt down in your car you get to stop and jump out and deal with it. If you get a melt down in the boat you can stop and jump out and then, well, um, you get my point?
I use domestic circuit breakers and bus boards etc. You can fit any fuse size as needed and make up any size stack – 2 to 200. But I agree that is overkill for this. Alternatively look into the large electronic suppliers and find the 12 v resettable fuses in the appropriate rating – make up a waterproof box with some basic in/out wiring and you don’t need any spare fuses again – oh joy!
See sources below for examples of some of these items.
I always take a heavy line from the battery to a very well isolated bus bar in some remote and easy to get at location away from the battery and connect all accessories there. I do not like anything on the battery other wise except the engine wiring as any sparks down there can make a huge explosion – standard batteries vent hydrogen gas remember.
Always run two wires fully to each item, +ve and -ve and NEVER use any part of your boat as ground. Ever.
What I have done is to add a 30 amp fuse from the battery to my console and then split it with smaller inline fuses at the console. I use a 40 amp marine 2 conductor wire from the battery, then the smaller fuses as needed. The trolling motor is direct to the battery with a large fuse to protect the wire. That way only 3 battery connections, yet no expensive fuse box.